Here’s the question: How do you do a Schluter
shower installation? Well, in today’s video we’re going to show you step-by-step how
to build a curb walk-in shower using the Schluter shower kit. The latest shower that we installed
turned out great; it looks amazing. And behind the tile is all of the Schluter that keeps
everything waterproof. So in today’s first video, which is video
number 1 of 3, we’re going to show you what is in the kit, how do you install the preformed
shower niche, cut down the pan, the curb, and also dry fit the drain. We’ve got a
ton of really great tips for you. And in video number 2, we’re going to show you how to
waterproof the walls. And in video number 3, we’ll show you how to finish everything
off by waterproofing the pan and the curb. So let’s dive into video number 1 and get
you started. Okay, so today we’re going to install the
Schluter waterproof shower system. Basically, the project that we’re working on we’re
going to be doing a 4×5 shower. So I got a kit—you can purchase these in different
kits that have a whole bunch of basically everything you need to build a walk-in shower—so
I got a 48 inch by 72 inch Schluter shower system.
So just to go quickly what this entails in the kit is that it comes with a tray—this
is a preformed tray—for the base that you can cut down to any size within reason to
fit your space. So you have the pre-sloped tray. You’ll have KERDI membrane, basically
our substrate, which we’ll show you here in a few minutes, is going to be drywall,
so you just have a KERDI membrane that you will thinset over your substrate, which is
going to be drywall. So that’s going to waterproof the walls. It comes with the drain
kit. Basically with your decorative tile drain, and then it has their own patented drain system
that goes in with the slope drain system. And inside that box they have a valve cover,
which will fit some rough-in valves for your shower, not all. And it’ll come with corner
pieces that you’ll be waterproofing the corners of the shower with.
And then in this 4×6 shower, it’s going to come with two curbs. So I’ll be able
to cut this down. This is 8 feet worth of curb, so I’m going to cut it down to 5 foot.
So I’m really not going to be using one and 1 foot of the other. And then two KERDI
bands. And this is just to go over all the seams of the wall material. So it’s basically
just the same material as the sheeting. What did not come in the kit is a trowel for
the thinset. This is actually a KERDI Schluter trowel. It’s an 1/8 inch by 1/8 inch square
notch trowel. Now you don’t have to necessarily purchase this, but it’s a good idea because
it’s the right amount of thinset to apply the KERDI. But you could 3/16 x ¼ inch v-notch
trowel if you prefer to go that way. A couple of accessories that you purchase
in addition to it is a niche. This was a 12×28 niche, and it has a moveable shelf that you’ll
be able to tile and put in place. And we also bought a corner bench that we’re going to
be installing in the corner. So this is all premade basically. We’ll show you how to
install that, but you’ll be able to just easily put this in place and you’ll have
a bench in the shower. We bought this preformed niche, but we’re
going to do something a little bit different with it rather than just having it in a regular
wall cavity. We’re actually going to put it into the corner of the shower just because
of the way that this shower is configured. This is an exterior wall, and then this one’s
an exterior wall. So you can’t really put a niche in those areas. And we have a mixing
valve here, and we’re going to have like a handheld shower system on here. There’s
not a whole lot of room here either. So what I wanted to do is put it in the corner but
have this tile continue into the niche rather than having it bump out and hafting the tile
like this edge. So what I’m going to do is modify this niche to fit up against this
wall. So all that I’m going to simply do is cut the whole edge off of
the niche because this is KERDI Board that they have here, and this is half inch. This
will go in line with my drywall. Now we got our niche in, we just need it screwed
in. You don’t need any additional support underneath it here. It’s really kind of
easy; just put it into the wall cavity, and as long as you have a stud to anchor your
niche to, you’ll be fine. The one thing that I did add was another 2×4 on the other
side here to catch my drywall because this obviously takes up the entire 2×4 when you
cut it out. I kind of like having to put the niche in
first and then putting a drywall up. It just kind of makes it a little bit easier, especially
in this scenario. I actually had to take some drywall off to be able to get this into my
stud bay. So we’re just going to use the Schluter
washers and screws basically for the KERDI board. I had these left over from a prior
project. And I’m going to anchor it into my 2×4 on this side of the wall. Now when
I put this drywall, I’m going to have that KERDI membrane going over the entire area
inside of here. We got our niche in. We have all our substrate
up our drywall. So we’re going to start putting the Schluter system together. Now,
you do not have to finish any of this drywall. And actually, in a lot of ways, it’s probably
better not to finish it to create any build-up. And you really want to have the KERDI membrane
adhering to the actual drywall and not drywall mud. So don’t finish the area within the
shower that you’re doing. We’re going to start out by putting the
tray in place to cut it and put it in place. And the main reason is because once I mix
up all my thinset, I don’t want to be trying to figure out how I’m going to cut my tray
to fit this space while that thinset is still sitting there. So basically the order of operation
is just get your pan fitted, and then we’re going to do the KERDI on the walls, and then
we’ll put the shower tray and install the shower tray on the last portion of the install.
But you want to get everything set up before you mix that thinset so you don’t have to
waste any material. So let’s get the dimension of what we have
here. And so we have 58 ¾, and we’re going to be coming out… well, let’s just take
a look at where the center of our drain is. This is kind of a different setup. Basically
I had to furr out this wall after I had the plumbing set because this wall was really
uneven, and I needed to get a nice, flush wall. This is an exterior wall, and there
was a roofline behind it. Anyways, I needed to put a nice, level straight wall in front
of it. So we’re actually 22 inches to the center of our drain. So I would like to have
my drain centered within this whole area. So we’re going to actually just come out
44 inches on that shower tray so that this drain looks centered within the area. And
then our curb would be on top of that, which is 4 ½. So overall we’re going to be like
48 ½ inches and full width on this shower. So let’s measure out the 44 inches and just
see what this looks like. And we got 59 1/8. So we’re about 3/8 of an inch off from the
back to the front. That’s one thing about these pans. You’re
not going to be about 100% tight to the wall because you’ll be able to pack thinset and
put the KERDI Band around it. So you have a lot of wiggle room. This doesn’t have
to an exact butting the drywall. It would be nice to do that. You don’t really necessarily…
I mean, if you’re within ¼ inch, I’d say you’re probably good enough. Whereas
other systems, you have to be exact, like there’s no fussing around with if you’re
unsquared or anything like that. So let’s just cut this pan down. Let’s
just take a look at where we’re at as far as centering this, too. So we’re 29 ½ from
the plumbing wall, and 29 ½. So we’re pretty centered within this space. So that’ll be
easy to do. So let’s go ahead and open our shower tray and cut that.
Okay, so we got our tray. Let’s go ahead and put this together so we can measure what
we need on it. Basically it’s kind of a finger groove that you kind of need to put
together. And as you can see, I kind of somehow nicked this and broke that. But don’t worry
about that; we’re just going to be filling that with thinset—this little bit of area—and
some of this we’ll be able to cut off anyways. I mean really, this preformed base is literally
just like kind of a substrate that is already pre-sloped. As far as having different nicks
and stuff like that, it’s not really going to jeopardize the slope. Now if you really
cracked the corner off where you’re going to have to dry pack something, then that’s
going to be a problem. But little dints here and there, these are like… here I kind of…
just bringing it up, I kind of damaged it. It’s not going to be that big of a deal.
This is pretty much like a guide for the shower slope.
So you got these little center marks on our drain system here. So like we’re saying,
we have 22 inches from the back wall to the center of our drain. So I just mark that.
So we’re basically taking 2 inches off of the pan. And just to be symmetrical, we do
the same thing here. So I know I’m taking 2 inches off of that as well. So now I also
add on here 29 ½ inches from the center of my drain pipe. So let’s go to the center
of the pan. Make a mark. And same for the other side. So even if your drain was off-set
slightly because of whatever reason with your obstructions and structural members, or maybe
the plumber or you didn’t have it set properly, it’s really easy to be able to just measure
this and make the… especially when you buy a bigger pan like this, you can pretty much
just cut this to fit wherever the drain location is within reason.
I mean, say if I was 2 inches off-center, I’ll be able to make this pan work. So there’s
a lot of room for error when you buy one of these kits. It doesn’t have to fit your
project perfectly. There’s always modifications that you can make to it.
I’m going to use a T-square to get a straight cut. Now you could… a couple of ways you
could do it. You could cut this with a circular saw if you wanted to. You could put it on
a table saw. There’s all types of different ways you can go about cutting it, but I’m
just going to use a regular utility knife. So I got my cut mark there now. Then I’m
going to go ahead and cut our 2 inches off. The other side.
Just one thing to explain here. On this side, I cut about 6 ½ inches off. Now
that’s not going to really make much of a difference. But you have to think about
it that since this is pre-sloped, you’re thicker on the outside perimeter of your pan
than you are down here. That’s obviously what makes the slope. So if I were to cut
say like a foot off of one side of this, what you’re going to end up with is your pan
on that side of the shower is going to be lower than say the adjacent side of that cut.
So since I only took 2 inches off of here, and I took 6 inches off of here, I’m actually
technically lower here than I am here. So if you were to put a laser level on this,
I’d be a fraction off level. Like this would be lower than this side. Now that progressively
gets worse as the more you cut off. So just keeping that in mind that if you cut off more
than a foot, that when you go to tile on your base, that you might need to skim out your
thinset a little bit to make up the difference of that thickness. But hopefully, most of
the time if you’re more than a foot, you should be able to buy a smaller kit that would
fit that space because they do have a variety of different sizes. I mean if you’re cutting
a foot off, then it might be best to go with a smaller size kit.
And just to add to that, just because the outside perimeter might be a difference in
level doesn’t mean that everything’s not going to still drain to the center of your
pan. Everything’s still pre-sloped. It’s just that if you cut a lot off of one side,
you’re going to end up being lower at the start point. Everything’s still going to
be pre-sloped; everything’s still going to function properly. It’s just going to
be a matter of when you put that first row of tile around the edge of your shower, there’s
going to be a little bit of a gap on one side than the other once you get into taking a
foot to 16 inches to two feet off or something like that.
So I’m going to make some adjustment cuts to it, kind of a little angle on the side
here. So I’m just going to cut back, just the way I kind of cut this at an angle a little
bit. So I’m going to cut this back so this fits tightly. I’m going to do the same thing
on this side. I’m just going to cut this back a little bit. Like I said, this does
not have to be like a completely accurate cut because you’ll be able to make a lot
of things up with the thinset KERDI Band. So that’s my unsquareness over here. I’m
just going to cut against the wall over here to get this to fit down nicely.
This is why you kind of want to do this before you mix up your thinset. When things are a
little bit unsquared, you kind of have to keep going over it until it fits nicely.
Okay, so I just have this… the pipe actually just kind of fits in here. So let’s go get
our drain and see how that looks. So I only cut a 4 inch hole in here; I should
have known better. I’m actually just going to cut the rest of this out here because you
really need a 4 ¼ inch hole, be perfect on there. But I would go back in time and make
that a 5 inch hole so you’re not fighting your drain piece on that.
Notched part of that joist out. Okay, with the pan dry fitted, I’m just
going to line this up with my pipe below because we have no access below. I’m just going
to measure down to where… In each fitting, there’s always a little hub where you can
put the pipe flat against. And that’s usually ¾ of an inch to an inch into the pipe. So
that’s basically what I’m measuring. So you can see here, it’s like a little ledge
where the pipe is not going to go in any further. So that’s what you want to measure to on
either side of the fitting. The P-trap on the inside, and then you want to measure to
here. We put it back. So we got about… You know you might want to give yourself an
eighth inch legroom because you don’t want to make it too high where you’re lifting
this. You don’t want to make this lifting up too high above your shower pan. You want
this to fit pretty nicely. So I’d probably just take an eighth inch. So right to that
measurement, we got 4 ½ inches, so I’ll make it 4 3/8, and having more than a half
inch of pipe on the other side is going to be sufficient. Take an eighth inch off so
you’re not fighting anything. Because I want straight cuts, I’m going
to put this in my trim saw and just cut this pipe. I’ll make a nice, straight cut. One
piece of advice on using a trim saw with any type of plastic: You really need to have a
good, firm grip on your pipe, and you got to make sure that the blade is up to full
speed. So turn on your blade to full speed before you cut it because if the blade catches
on this, this just whips it right out of your hand; it can be really quite dangerous. Just
make sure you have a really good, firm grip. And I’d honestly probably recommend getting
a longer piece before cutting that. Maybe get like a 1 foot piece before cutting it.
Test your foam in there and make sure that they’ll sit well in there because you don’t
want this to be pushing up out. And when you get your glue, it’s going to make the fitting
go in a little bit further. But if you measure properly, and you took that extra eighth inch
off, because right now it’s kind of holding up a little bit. But once I get some glue
in there, we’ll be in good shape. And I’m also thinsetting this pan to add a little
bit of bite. Just make sure everything’s clear on there too.
So now we got this whole pan set up, we’re going to go ahead and start putting the waterproofing
together. So we’ll take the pan out temporarily. Before you go just automatically putting the
KERDI membrane up, you kind of want to plan ahead and precut this to the size that you’re
going to need. Now the kit that I purchased is actually bigger than this space. I had
bought a 4 foot by 6 foot kit; this is 4 foot by 5 foot. So I’m actually going to have
a little bit extra membrane than a normal kit. But it is a good idea to plan this out,
making sure that you have enough coverage everywhere you need because a lot of the kits
are just going to be just above the shower head; they’re not going to have enough to
go to the 8 foot ceiling. Maybe you have 10 foot ceiling, so you’re going to bring tile
all the way up. You’re not going to necessarily have enough KERDI to go up to a 10 foot ceiling.
So map it out and try to maximize the amount of space that you can get waterproofed. Personally,
in this 8 foot space, I would prefer to have that waterproofed up there. But if I don’t
have enough material, just as long as I’m above the shower head, that’s good enough.
So let’s go ahead and measure this out. So we’re going to have 48 inches, basically,
because we’re cutting our pan down to 44 inches. And then we’re going to have that
curb that’ll be about 4 ½. So I guess technically, we’ll be 48 ½ inches is where we’re going
to end our waterproofing for the shower. So I’ll just measure over the 3 foot 3, that’s
the size of these sheets. Okay, and then you want to overlap each sheet by this amount,
like you can see how where they started the gridline; that’s two inches. So everywhere
that you install the membrane, it has to be overlapped a minimum of 2 inches. You can
go more than that if you want, but it has to be the minimum. So let’s go ahead and
measure over 2 inches from the edge. So we got 11 inches. So 2 foot 2 is where our other…
because we’re going to actually just fold this full sheet into the corner and bring
it out. So we’ll measure over another 2 inches for the overlap. And then we’ll come
over the corner, 3 foot 3. So we got 3 foot 3 here. And then we’re going to have 2 inches
overlap on that as well. Three foot three, same idea. And so it looks like our end cut
is going to be about 8 inches to cover… or 10 inches, I should say, because you’re
going to overlap 2 inches. So 10 inches of overlap. So basically you need one, two, three,
four full sheets, and we’ll see how high we can get it to go. And in this cutoff, most
likely we’ll have enough from our shower pan.
With these two rolls, we have 50 feet worth of KERDI membrane. And we actually have an
8 foot ceiling, so I’d be preferable to do 8 foot sections. So 4 times 8 is 32 feet.
And then for the shower pan, we are going to need the one sheet there, with that 2 inch
overlap. So basically 7, and then we’d going up over the curb, twenty four. So basically
just say just two sheets of this for the floor. So 10 feet. So you’re going to want 10 feet
of the membrane for the floor. So that leaves us 40 feet of membrane for the walls. So we
only need 32 plus that 10 inch strip, so we’re going to cut… so we’ll be able to run
the membrane all the way up. So each case is going to be different as far
as how far you can go up, but just try to plan out ahead. So we’re going to go ahead
and cut these down to 8 foot strips. We’ll get four of them at first and do these walls.
Okay, so let’s measure 8 foot pieces. And having the gridlines on it kind of makes it
nice and easy for like a straight cut. Okay, so we got two curbs for this kit, and
we have to cut it down to fit to size. So we got 11 1/16. The curbs are pretty big,
I mean they’re 6 inches tall. I feel that’s a little big; it’s a little big to walk
over. Basically on the inside of the shower you have like 4 ½ inches of depth. I would
prefer to cut this down at least 2 inches, so you have like a lower curb to walk in.
Because you have to think, “Are you going to have tile on top of this?” You’re going
to have tile on the floor as well, so it’s going to be the same difference once you’re
done. But still, I don’t see any reason to have basically 4 inches of room on the
inside. Now depends on your plumbing code, some places are going to require to have a
4 inch basically allowance for the curb. But I’m going to cut this whole thing down,
and you can do that pretty easily in a couple of ways, and we’ll show you how to do that.
Let’s just cut the full distance here first. So you got 11 1/8. So 11 1/8.
So let’s go ahead and use a utility knife on this as well. So we’ll just have to straighten
out some of it. It doesn’t have to be that snug. And honestly, I’m just going to cut
a little bit more of it off because I want to get thinset up against the wall, so it
doesn’t have to be that snug. All right, that’ll work.
So I’m just going to run this through the table saw; I think it’s going to be the
easiest way to get a nice, even cut on it. So 4 inches; we want to cut it down 4 inches.
So I think that’s a more reasonable height. So about 2 ½ inches on the inside, and that’ll
be less to step over. Okay, so one of the things obviously before
you install this pan… The pre-slope is all going to rely on the levelness of the subfloor
below. So if your subfloor is not level, the pan is not going to be pitched properly to
the drain. So that’s one thing you definitely want to make sure that you double-check before
you go installing this pan, to make sure that there isn’t any leveling that needs to be
done within your area. So just get a full foot level. And I’m staying within reason,
I mean we’re pretty much spot on on here. If you’re within a ¼ inch of level, I think
you’re pretty good. But just double-check your levelness before you put our pan down.
Keep in mind we’re going to video number 2 right here where we show you how to waterproof
the walls in the shower. And if you’re doing a complete bathroom remodel and you want help
with that, go to our free guide right here. It’s awesome. It’ll show you step-by-step
what to do on days 1 through 10 of a 10-day bathroom remodel. So again, you can grab the
guide right here. Totally free and fantastic. All right, we’ll see you in the next video.
Thanks for watching this one, and we hope you have a great day.